Diana Walstad svarar på våra frågor!
Postat: 27 jan 2010, 02:35
1. I think your book Ecology of the Planted Aquarium is great. Are we going to see any new books from you soon?
Thanks and No. Ecology of the Planted Aquarium is the only book I plan to write on the subject. I’ve recently updated the 6th printing of my book with new information. The 6th printing will start selling in about March to April 2010.
2a. Do you (in any limited way) use extra fertilizers or CO2?
No. I work with Mother Nature— not against her. Also, fishfood is better than any chemical fertilizer. Slow-release, non-toxic, and complete (my book, pp 78-82)…
2b. If so, what kind of extra nutrients have you had to supply?
None.
3. What nutritional levels do you prefer?
No iron in the water; it only stimulates algae (my book, pp. 167-170). I want plants to get their iron from the soil not the water. The only time I want iron in the water is if I am growing floating plants.
Water should contain enough calcium and magnesium (my book, pp. 114-115). If the water has a GH greater than 4, then these “hardwater nutrients” should be naturally available to plants.
4. What do you think will be the next "big thing" in the planted aquarium hobby?
I have no idea!
5. You are a great source of inspiration to aquarists around the world and maybe it is a skill you were born with, but I guess even you seek inspiration somewhere when creating your setups. What is your inspirational source?
Scientific literature and Robert G.Wetzel’s textbook Limnology. Then, there is my own observations and experiments. Input from other aquarium hobbyists is sometimes helpful but can be misleading.
6. Can you find an example of something in your recent work that is a clear influence from an fellow aquascaper?
Yes, I was impressed by Tom Barr’s article on the Dry Start Method in the Dec 2009 issue of Freshwater and Marine Aquarium. He uses the ‘Aerial Advantage’ concept that I discuss in my book (pp 143-156). I will continue to work with this idea and report on it in my book and future publications.
7. What is the most recent important knowledge/insight that you have aquired in the last year?
The Dry Start Method and the fun/ease of keeping freshwater shrimp.
8. Do you look at and analyze other ways of running planted aquariums? If so, which methods have you tested?
Yes. I have set up two new NPTs with the Dry Start Method. They are doing incredibly well.
9.Do you keep up with the planted aquarium community online and do you get any inspiration and ideas for experiments from the community?
The Dry Start Method is the only thing that has interested me recently. That said, I enjoy reading articles in The Aquatic Gardener and looking at postings on Aquatic Plant Central website.
10.Do you try to improve your methodologies, if so in which way?
I have started measuring CO2 levels in my NPTs. That has given me valuable information on how plants are growing, how much CO2 is being produced by decomposition, the effect of lighting regimens on plant growth, etc. This information will be published in an early 2010 article of The Aquatic Gardener and included in the new 6th printing of my book.
11.Do you always have consistent luck with your tanks or do you get any setbacks from time to time? If so, what kind of setbacks?
I have had a few problem tanks-- usually with algae takeovers. Problem tanks are usually ones that aren’t started with enough robust plant species, or the soil contained chemical fertilizers. These problems can usually be fixed by frequent water changes during the first couple months.
12. Are there any specific plants you have a hard time growing, and if so, do you have any special tricks to get demanding plants to thrive?
There are some plant species that have not done well for me. Rotala macrandra does fine for about 6 months after setup, then slowly dies out. Floating plants Water Sprite and Frogbit will do fine, but only if there’s enough iron in the water. Hemianthus callitrichoides did not do well for me when I started it submerged, but it did great when I started it emergent with the Dry Start Method. Lots of variables. That is why I consistently advise beginning hobbyists to start out with as many plant species as possible. Hobbyists discover the plants that do best for them under their own unique soil, water, and lighting conditions.
13. Do you believe there has been a development of specific styles within nature aquarium aquascapes? If so, do the styles follow the geography or is the aquascaping scene global.
I have no interest in aquascaping scenes or styles. I am interested in keeping NPTs (natural planted tanks) with robust plants and healthy fish/shrimp.
14.What is the most frequent misunderstanding/mistake when running a "Walstad"-type, or "low tech"-type of aquarium?
That getting the “right soil” is the answer to everything.
15.Are there any inhabitants of a planted aquarium you find almost a necessity? Type of algae eaters, snails etc?
Getting healthy, fast-growing plants off to a good start is essential. Snails help.
16. What kind of aquarium lightning do you prefer, and why? MH / T5 / LED / Other ???
I use natural light, T-12 (ordinary fluorescent light), or CFL (compact fluorescent lighting).
17a. Do you use a light meter to measure the light intensity?
No, except when I photograph tanks. I have a general idea of the light intensity in my tanks.
17b. If so, what light levels do you prefer?
I use one-three watts/gal of whatever lighting I happen to have.
18. Do you adjust light levels to the type of plants you will cultivate?
Yes. I make sure that tanks with floating and emergent plants have intense light. Submerged plant need much less intensity (my book, p.146). Excess light for submerged plants will only stimulate algae.
19. How do you decide lighting time and what factors do you use for that descicion?
My own observations and CO2 measurements are documented in the recent (2010) 6th printing of my book. The photoperiod or daylength should be at least 12 hours. I discuss this in the Jan-Mar 2009 issue of The Aquatic Gardener.
20. There are several specimens in trade that are classified as invasive in terms of their ability to affect habitats they invade economically, environmentally or ecologically. How do you think such specimens should be taken care of when the aquarists no longer have use for them in their aquarium in order to prevent further spreading.
Chlorox or boil the plants.
Thanks and No. Ecology of the Planted Aquarium is the only book I plan to write on the subject. I’ve recently updated the 6th printing of my book with new information. The 6th printing will start selling in about March to April 2010.
2a. Do you (in any limited way) use extra fertilizers or CO2?
No. I work with Mother Nature— not against her. Also, fishfood is better than any chemical fertilizer. Slow-release, non-toxic, and complete (my book, pp 78-82)…
2b. If so, what kind of extra nutrients have you had to supply?
None.
3. What nutritional levels do you prefer?
No iron in the water; it only stimulates algae (my book, pp. 167-170). I want plants to get their iron from the soil not the water. The only time I want iron in the water is if I am growing floating plants.
Water should contain enough calcium and magnesium (my book, pp. 114-115). If the water has a GH greater than 4, then these “hardwater nutrients” should be naturally available to plants.
4. What do you think will be the next "big thing" in the planted aquarium hobby?
I have no idea!
5. You are a great source of inspiration to aquarists around the world and maybe it is a skill you were born with, but I guess even you seek inspiration somewhere when creating your setups. What is your inspirational source?
Scientific literature and Robert G.Wetzel’s textbook Limnology. Then, there is my own observations and experiments. Input from other aquarium hobbyists is sometimes helpful but can be misleading.
6. Can you find an example of something in your recent work that is a clear influence from an fellow aquascaper?
Yes, I was impressed by Tom Barr’s article on the Dry Start Method in the Dec 2009 issue of Freshwater and Marine Aquarium. He uses the ‘Aerial Advantage’ concept that I discuss in my book (pp 143-156). I will continue to work with this idea and report on it in my book and future publications.
7. What is the most recent important knowledge/insight that you have aquired in the last year?
The Dry Start Method and the fun/ease of keeping freshwater shrimp.
8. Do you look at and analyze other ways of running planted aquariums? If so, which methods have you tested?
Yes. I have set up two new NPTs with the Dry Start Method. They are doing incredibly well.
9.Do you keep up with the planted aquarium community online and do you get any inspiration and ideas for experiments from the community?
The Dry Start Method is the only thing that has interested me recently. That said, I enjoy reading articles in The Aquatic Gardener and looking at postings on Aquatic Plant Central website.
10.Do you try to improve your methodologies, if so in which way?
I have started measuring CO2 levels in my NPTs. That has given me valuable information on how plants are growing, how much CO2 is being produced by decomposition, the effect of lighting regimens on plant growth, etc. This information will be published in an early 2010 article of The Aquatic Gardener and included in the new 6th printing of my book.
11.Do you always have consistent luck with your tanks or do you get any setbacks from time to time? If so, what kind of setbacks?
I have had a few problem tanks-- usually with algae takeovers. Problem tanks are usually ones that aren’t started with enough robust plant species, or the soil contained chemical fertilizers. These problems can usually be fixed by frequent water changes during the first couple months.
12. Are there any specific plants you have a hard time growing, and if so, do you have any special tricks to get demanding plants to thrive?
There are some plant species that have not done well for me. Rotala macrandra does fine for about 6 months after setup, then slowly dies out. Floating plants Water Sprite and Frogbit will do fine, but only if there’s enough iron in the water. Hemianthus callitrichoides did not do well for me when I started it submerged, but it did great when I started it emergent with the Dry Start Method. Lots of variables. That is why I consistently advise beginning hobbyists to start out with as many plant species as possible. Hobbyists discover the plants that do best for them under their own unique soil, water, and lighting conditions.
13. Do you believe there has been a development of specific styles within nature aquarium aquascapes? If so, do the styles follow the geography or is the aquascaping scene global.
I have no interest in aquascaping scenes or styles. I am interested in keeping NPTs (natural planted tanks) with robust plants and healthy fish/shrimp.
14.What is the most frequent misunderstanding/mistake when running a "Walstad"-type, or "low tech"-type of aquarium?
That getting the “right soil” is the answer to everything.
15.Are there any inhabitants of a planted aquarium you find almost a necessity? Type of algae eaters, snails etc?
Getting healthy, fast-growing plants off to a good start is essential. Snails help.
16. What kind of aquarium lightning do you prefer, and why? MH / T5 / LED / Other ???
I use natural light, T-12 (ordinary fluorescent light), or CFL (compact fluorescent lighting).
17a. Do you use a light meter to measure the light intensity?
No, except when I photograph tanks. I have a general idea of the light intensity in my tanks.
17b. If so, what light levels do you prefer?
I use one-three watts/gal of whatever lighting I happen to have.
18. Do you adjust light levels to the type of plants you will cultivate?
Yes. I make sure that tanks with floating and emergent plants have intense light. Submerged plant need much less intensity (my book, p.146). Excess light for submerged plants will only stimulate algae.
19. How do you decide lighting time and what factors do you use for that descicion?
My own observations and CO2 measurements are documented in the recent (2010) 6th printing of my book. The photoperiod or daylength should be at least 12 hours. I discuss this in the Jan-Mar 2009 issue of The Aquatic Gardener.
20. There are several specimens in trade that are classified as invasive in terms of their ability to affect habitats they invade economically, environmentally or ecologically. How do you think such specimens should be taken care of when the aquarists no longer have use for them in their aquarium in order to prevent further spreading.
Chlorox or boil the plants.